![]() ![]() So there’s no hanging around for the postman to turn up and no problems with things going missing in the post – you just download your own personal copy immediately. This download link means you can download the PDF directly to your device straight away. The good news, when you place your order is you will receive an email receipt straight away along with a download link. We ask for a very small fee to cover the many hours it took to produce this document and photograph the entire process for you. How to bias Fender amplifiers correctly: The Definitive Expert Guide. To get your superb 15-page copy of How to bias a Fender Red Knob “The Twin” click on the ‘Add to Cart’ link above. This superb guide will enable you to do exactly that. So it makes sense to ensure that your amp is running within tolerances to ensure the best performance. Any amp that red-plates the valves must be switched off immediately. But run them really hot and there is a danger of red-plating which is a real threat. Run them too hot and you may actually like the sound better than the suggested factory setting. ![]() If your valves are running “too cold” they will last much longer but the sound will probably be very disappointing. He also debunks a lot of myths surrounding the biasing of valves once and for all along the way. So this is the ultimate guide written exactly for your amp – all made extremely clear and simple to understand with lots of hints and tips and colour photographs. He has repaired and modified thousands of amplifiers over his long career. The important thing is that it is written by a senior electronics engineer with over 40 years of experience in the amplifier industry. This illustrated user-guide will take you step-by-step through every stage of the process on how to perfectly bias your Fender amplifier. This will ensure that not only is the amp biased correctly but that you are kept safe at the same time. ![]() So we’ve put together the definitive bias manual for the Fender Twin Red Knob “The Twin” amplifier. They have gained a little knowledge along the way – so that’s just enough knowledge to make them, and you, dangerous! Most of the stuff you read on the forums is stuff is written by well-meaning enthusiasts. So there’s no room for error, guesswork or amateur electronics here. most people don’t realise that an amp will hold a lethal voltage for quite some time even after it’s been switched off. The moment you open up a guitar amplifier you’re dealing with extremely high voltages. Unfortunately, the sad truth is, at best, most of it is plain wrong and in many cases, it’s downright dangerous. NOTE: As you all know, there’s already loads of free information on the web on bias adjustment for Fender amplifiers. (There is, of course, no need to rebias the amp when you change your preamp tubes, only your power tubes). Yet manufacturers always say that you should bias your amp when you change your power valves. Of course, many people do not bother to learn how to adjust the bias on their amps and have no problems. How to Bias a Fender Twin Red Amp Knob “The Twin” amplifier.Ĭorrect biasing of your Fender Twin Amp Red Knob “The Twin” amplifier will ensure that your valves are running at optimum performance. Of course, many amplifier manufacturers rebrand these valves in their own name. The E元4 tube also found its way into Hiwatt, Orange, and Laney amps, all made in Britain, as well as the popular Canadian-made Traynor brand.Īlthough Philips no longer makes the E元4 tube, it is manufactured by Electro Harmonix, JJ Electronics and Sovtek which deliver top quality output tubes with stunning tone. That amp went on to become a standard for the British blues-rock sound. He went with it because it was cheaper and easier to get in England than the 6L6 he had used previously. The E元4 valve’s popularity was sealed when Jim Marshall selected it for his JTM45 guitar amp in 1965. The E元4 (6CA7) valve was originally introduced back in 1949 by Philips the parent company of Mullard.Īmong the first amps to use E元4 valves were the Marantz 2 (1955), Dynaco Mark II (1956), and the rare Pye Mozart, a single-ended 9-watt British unit from 1956. ![]()
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